Hiker Haven

I hoped that my ears had deceived me. Then I heard it again. I sat up in my tent and momentarily had the familiar, secure feeling that this flimsy piece or erected canvas would keep me safe. It wouldn't, maybe from the odd snake or spider that would not be able to find a way in, but from a mountain lion? I hoped I had been dreaming, then it roared again and this time it seemed closer. I looked at my watch, it was just after 3am. Mountain lions hunt mainly at night and stalk their prey, not much comfort as I dwelt on the possible fate that seemed to be creeping closer.

I woke up at 06.30am, dressed quickly and got out of the tent. Bigfoot was still outside in his sleeping bag but awake.

"Mate, did you hear that roaring last night. I thought I was a gonna. Sounded like a mountain lion or something"? I said."

"Oh yeah", he replied. "There's a farm up the way that keeps a couple of lions and a bear. They use them in the movies". He rolled over started snoozing again whilst I stood there feeling like a prat.

After a wrong turn up the railroad, I began to climb. Nothing too serious but with the ever increasing heat of the past couple of days, I was dripping with sweat. It rolled down my nose and caught the edge of my mouth where I could taste the salt. My arms shone as I gulped down more water.

I passed Elk, Logic, Mojave and Cheeks who had made camp on a small ridge and listened as Logic recounted how she had woken last night and watched two Coyotes sniffing around camp before she shooed them off.

I walked further, steering a course around a bees nest that was in the middle of the trail. The PCT wound down a few switchbacks, across a level section and then under the highway via a tunnel, perhaps 100 metres long. It was dark, damp and I walked to one side to avoid a small stream of water in the middle. As the circle of light at the other end grew bigger I could make out the silhouette of someone sitting by the exit. The familiar features of Tomer emerged as I reached the end. He looked up at me casually.

"Welcome to the other side" he offered, sounding like a character from a supernatural movie.

After the wide space of the trail in the morning, a canyon suddenly condensed and enclosed me like I had been wrapped in a massive blanket. Rocks, outcrops and cliffs loomed up from either side as I walked along the course of a small creek, hopping over the water as the trail crossed it. Layers of different coloured rock, millions of years old, streaked across the cliff face as they plunged diagonally into the earth. They looked like a huge slice of layer cake stuck into the earth at an angle.

I spilled out onto the road, a mile or so from the town of Agua Dulce. Suddenly to be swept out of wilderness into 'reality' always catches me off guard after days on the trail.  I reached the intersection of Darling Road and made a left for the last mile as I approached what is fondly referred to as 'Hiker Haven'. This house set up on the hill is home to the Saufleys who every year offer the grounds and outbuildings to all thru-hikers who choose (wisely) to stay here. I was given the guided tour by John, my laundry disappeared and re-emerged later smelling as good as new. I collected my packaged that they had held for me and found an empty camp bed in one of the outside tents.

I leave here tomorrow, refreshed and rested up. I have around 250 miles before I hit the High Sierras. The temperature over here in the next few days is due to hit the 100's. I am looking forward to the mountains.